🔗 Share this article

When assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.